My paper journal -- Stay Out of Circulation 'Til the Dogs Get Tired -- went woefully neglected, mostly because it wasn't really a journal kind of trip. However, I did make some notes on my arrival in Australia, which will serve as a good intro to this post. I'll write about Bali in a seperate entry, just to try and keep the visitor numbers above 1.
Monday 19, OctoberThe first week of our holiday was spent in Albany, WA, visiting the girl's family. We were blessed by unusually warm Spring weather, a kind of climate that suited me just fine -- and the residents of Albany all seemed happy with the result.
We arrived in Perth close to 1am. Customs cleared, baggage reclaimed, we drive South.
Austrlian Highways don't seem to resemble the English idea of a motorway -- instead of there being six lanes of traffic, you just have one, long, straight road. Driving at night, you stick to the middle to try and avoid any unwelcome surprises jumping into the road. On either side of the road, dark trees and bush form a barrier before the black hills stretch to the starry night sky.
At one point, we stop to change drivers. I kick my feet in the dust of the petrol station forecourt and am suddenly startled by the unexpected laughing of a bird.
By the time we reach Albany, dawn is breaking on Sunday and all around there are sounds of life.
Albany is a city famous for its whales -- and specific times of year you can see either Humpback whales or Southern Right whales, and there are a number of tour companies running whale watching excursions. Last year's visit fell right in the middle of the migrating periods of the two species -- one had left Albany's waters, and the other hadn't yet returned. What this meant for me was there were no whales to be seen out there -- two trips on whale boats rewarded us with dolphins and seals, but not a whale.
I wondered if this visit would be the same. I am pleased to report back that, instead, there were whales this time -- whales splashing in the water, just a short way off the beach, whales with calves, whales jumping out the water, whales splashing their tales. Doing almost every damn thing except balancing beach balls on their noses, which everyone knows whales are supposed to do.
Overall, we didn't do a whole lot in Albany. One day we drove out to the Stirling mountain ranges -- mainly so that the girl's Mum and Nanna could look at wild flowers, but I appreciated the opportunity to be out in the wilderness. In an incredibly nerdy way, it made me a little bit exciting to be out in the mountains again, it reminded me of being in Peru last year. Except this time, I wasn't nearly prepared for it -- while to make a round trip to the summit and back of several of the mountains we visited would only have taken about 4 hours or so, it needed to be planned for. I had no water, no suitable clothing, and my trainers were falling apart on my feet. Quite literally, I think you could see my sock through the gaping hole in one of them. Just the same, I wandered up a mountain trail for almost an hour, before turning around and coming back.
Next time, I am determined I will go equipped -- with a day pack, my platypus water bottle, some real hiking trousers, and maybe a pair of boots. About all I did have was a hat.
Other days we took walks along the boardwalk or the beach with the dog, or visited the forts and saw where the Anzac boats sailed from.
People in Australia -- mainly people outside of Albany -- have asked me since if, when we move to Australia, I could see myself living in Albany. I don't know if they wonder what I think of it compared to London. The truth is, the city of Albany has roughly the same population as the town I grew up in, out in Essex, where my parents still live. The difference is Albany is spread of a much wider area, so there seems to be a lot more there. Some people in Albany -- the girl's younger bro included -- have no intention of ever leaving, and particularly can't see why anyone would want to live overseas in somewhere like England.
One afternoon, the girl and I stood on the beach in the late afternoon sun. It was about 4pm, so the kids were getting out of school and it was warm enough that many were coming down to the beach and to swim in the ocean. As we stood there, the air was warm, kids were playing on the beach, and there was a whale to be seen only a little way off the coast, just splashing gently in the water...
When people ask me if I could live in Albany I tell them honestly that I could -- it was moments like that which made living in London seem much greyer. But we could only live in Albany if there was anything to do. If there was enough there that the girl and I could both find work, earn a decent wage, and be able to do other things we loved -- in that case, sure, it was a nice place. It wasn't paradise, but where is? It wasn't a bad place to be, if you still kept a healthy sense of adventure and love of travel. But there are plenty of other nice places we can also be -- personally, when we are in Australia I have said I want to live in Fremantle, but it remains to be seen.
I think Albany is more like Chelmsford, when I think about it. It feels more Chelmsford sized, and similar to Chelmsford, probably attracts a lot of people from the surrounding areas for the ammenities. Chelmsford has more big supermarkets, but otherwise the coverage is about the same, I think.
ReplyDeleteI get asked all the time whether I'd live in Albany when we go back, by people here. I think Perth has a suitable amount of distance between us and various members of the family, though.
My brother doesn't understand why anyone would even *visit* here, let alone live here, so he's probably a special case.
*Ahem... "Stirling" and "Nanna".*